1:25 scale Knight 2000.

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Gold Coast Knight
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1:25 scale Knight 2000.

Post by Gold Coast Knight » Tue Feb 08, 2005 8:10 am

Hi guys, just thought i'd leave a quick msg to say that I have just received my AMT ERTL 1:25 scale Knight 2000 kit set model I brought through ebay which I will start to build very soon. I will post some pics of it when it is finished if anyone would like to see it. Just let me know.
Cheers.

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Post by walter h. anderson » Tue Feb 08, 2005 1:32 pm

I have the 1/25th KITT and KIFT models as well.
Both cars have the doors cut out cause I'm building them with lights and opening doors. I'll show my pics when I get more work done.

Glad you got bit by the modeling bug like me, Gold Coast Knight.
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Always loved it.

Post by Gold Coast Knight » Tue Feb 08, 2005 6:42 pm

I have loved builing the scale models for as long as I can remember. Since I've been in Australia I have build 3 helicopters, 2 airliners and 6 cars, but when I saw the KITT model on Ebay I had to have it. The doors don't open on mine though, I thought they would have, but never mind. Can't wait to start building.

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Post by walter h. anderson » Wed Feb 09, 2005 11:59 am

The reason the doors don't open on your model is cause that's the way it was molded. I cut the doors out on my kits. The next step for me is to mold the dashboards in clear resin, but I don't know where to find any clear resin with a mix ratio of 1:1. I'll also be cementing the inner and outer doors together and make a hinge for the doors.
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Post by Dave Knight » Thu Feb 10, 2005 1:27 am

Hey Gold Coast Knight, if you want some tips and tricks to make your KITT model REALLY stand out. let me know i can give you all the paint colors you will need to make this model as accurate as possible. PM me or email me or Instant Message me all any one will work. i have done both the original MPC KITT model from the 80s and the AMT reissue of it that came out a year or so ago.
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Post by walter h. anderson » Thu Feb 10, 2005 1:38 pm

Dave Knight wrote:Hey Gold Coast Knight, if you want some tips and tricks to make your KITT model REALLY stand out. let me know i can give you all the paint colors you will need to make this model as accurate as possible. PM me or email me or Instant Message me all any one will work. i have done both the original MPC KITT model from the 80s and the AMT reissue of it that came out a year or so ago.


Can I have all the details too? Anything to make my KITT & KIFT models stand out would be helpful. I can be e-mailed or PM-ed.
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Post by Dave Knight » Fri Feb 11, 2005 12:53 am

well after reading Gold Coasts PM he says he already has the paints needed as required by the instructions. but alas most of those colors are innacurate. lets start with the interior and go from there.

Interior: Testors Dark Tan, Testors Satin Black or Black Chrome Trime (both are a semi gloss black paint) these are for the base color and the black parts of the interior. for the dash and buttons i prefer Prismcolor brand colored pencils avilible at most art supply stores or any decent craft store. they can be sharpened to a fine point to pick off all the details of the little buttons on the consoles steering wheel logo, and if your carefull the dash details like the red and yellow spots near kitts voice box. First paint the interior bucket, both seats (two parts per seat) testors dark tan this paint also comes in a spray that will make it easier than brush painting. if you have the older MPC era kitt which was molded in black plastic you will have to spray these parts with a primer (either testors brand primer or just a light flat color like a military flat grey paint or flat white paint) the tan paint is flat so it will dry quickly, but to be safe let it dry overnight to cure before doing any masking to paint the black parts later or the tan paint will come off the plastic. paint the dash, upper console, lower console, shift lever, button pods behind steering wheel and steering wheel the semi gloss black. when tan has dried properly on the interior shell, paint the very upper edges of the doors and armrests and various details semi gloss black. look at pics of kitts door for reference on the net or on the dvd, or on a real 82 up era firebird/TransAM. paint the center console that is molded in the interior bucket (the part of the interior the lower console mounts too later on) semi gloss black. be carefull to only paint the section that is sticking out of the floor in the middle and not the rest of the raised section that seperates the front seats and goes back towards the rear seat. again see pics of kitt and or real firebird/Trans Am for reference. using the colored pencils try to get em sharp as you can and using pics for refernece paint the lower console buttons as they look on the real car. over head console buttons are all red. the monitors on kitts dash can be either flat white or silver your choice. use reference pics for the switch pods on both sides of wheel again make sure the pencil is sharp as you can get it. after you have the dash you the way you want it. put the interior together but try not to touch the areas you colored with the pencil cause unless you sprayed them with a clear coat over them it will rub off. i suggest gluing the dashboard together before doing the colored buttons and other details. if you have any questions let me know.
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Post by Dave Knight » Sat Feb 12, 2005 4:19 am

okay time for round two chasis and engine detail. you will need the following colors: testors aluminum, steel, satin or semi gloss black, gloss black, and flat black, and either flat white or flat orange (for the oil filter :wink: )

Engine: take parts (using the instruction sheet numbers here) engine halfs 30 and 31, the oil pan 32 the intake manifold 33, the heads 34 there are two of them, and the front engine parts 37 and 53 paint them alluminum, paint the valve covers part 107 there are two of these too(they are plated but i recomend soaking them in amonia or strong floor cleaner to remove the chrome so the paint sticks) after you remove the chrome and rinse em off and dry em real good paint them semi gloss black, and then paint the oil filter 82 the flat white or orange your choice here. next paint the starter number 38 gloss black and part 54 (not sure what it is it mounts to the right side of engine near the front silver. use the stock fuel injecton parts in STEP 3 here dont use the turbo charged parts in STEP 4. paint the 3 parts that go on top satin black, the distributor both parts numbers 40 flat black, the headers part 35 and 36 steel, and part 46 flat black. on STEP 5 paint part number 41 flat black and paint the round pully detail gloss black (use a small brush or a toothpick lightly dipped in the paint, but wipe off excess here) paint parts 105, 43, and 42 gloss black, paint part 104 alluminum (after you dechrome it like you do with the valve covers). congradulations you just detail painted KITTs engine well done, but were not done yet :wink:

Step 6 paint part 10 the chasis semi gloss black (if you have the older MPC kitt leave it the black its moulded in) paint all the parts gloss black. if you want working steering only glue parts 71 and 11, 12 and 70 to the chassis leave 14 and 13 between the chassis and parts 11, and 12 and attach part 15 to the pins of parts 14, and 13 and take a sewing needle and heat the tip and just before it cools down lightly touch where the pins from 14 and 13 poke through part 15 so it slightly melts those pins so that part 15 doesnt come off. test move one of the 2 wheel mounts (14 and 13 carefully to see if it works and turn it over to see if the connector bar (number 15 stays on) if you dont want kitt to have working steering then just glue all the parts in this section to gether. almost done hang in there ;)

Step 7 paint all the parts gloss black except for part 28, paint the everything on it steel except for the shaded areas marked on the manual paint those alluminum to contrast against the steel of the rest of the part.

Step 8, decrhome the rims part number 100, after wards paint the whole rim gloss black or satin black with a gloss coat over it. take a toothpick and lightly dip in alluminum paint and run it slowly arround the edge of the rim and then do the fin lines that connect from the rim to the hubcap, be sure to re dip and remove excess paint from tooth pic. paint parts 72 and 73 alluminum assemble rim halfs arround the tires (after your use a hobby knife to remove the excess rubbery webbbing in the middle of the tire).

Step 9 paint both parts gloss black

and that concludes engine and drive train, if you have ANY questions feel free to ask me in PM, Instant Message, or Email, my contact info is all in my profile. tomorrow ill dive into body, and final assembly of KITT

see you in the future
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KITT: "I want custody of ME!"

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Post by Dave Knight » Wed Feb 16, 2005 2:05 am

Well here we are the final stages of the KITT model in the final section we will concentrate on the body detailing and final assembly.

Body: First, remove the KNIGHT 2000 on the front nose and ANY markings on the body like the TURBO TRANS AM on the front fender near the door, the BIRD logo on the rear fender between the side window and the hatch and the side door molding trim before you begin painting, cause those things are not on kitt. all you need is a fine grit sand paper and just go slowly on those areas till the body areas are smooth. rinse the body to remove any power residue from sanding. if the areas are are all now marking free. prime the body and front nose with a model kit primer a few light coats will make any areas you still see need sanding visibile. if need be, re sand those areas, re rinse body and re prime. when you have the body all primed, then you are ready for paint. i sugguest if you have an airbrush Testors Black Chrome Trim, if you dont have an airbrush Tamiya makes a Semi Gloss Black in a spray can check your hobby store. its a satin black that looks great in one or two coats and dries fast between coats. wait a day before puting on the second coat, and repeat if you need a third coat (alwys good to put the coats on a nice thin spray). when the body is all black painted (make sure you put on the door mirrors before the body makes painting them easier) make sure you paint the nose, rear bumper, hood, and rear wing seperately. when the car is painted and the paint is cured (about 24 hours after final coat) spray a few coats of Testors Super High Gloss or if you cant find it Testors Gloss Coat (comes in a spray can)
In Step 14 of the manual paint parts 83 body color as i described in the body painting you might want to include this part with the body parts. paint parts 20, 19, 68 and 24 semigloss black (use the colored pencils to pic off the silver and red details on the battery part 24) paint parts 26 and 25 Flat white and paint the caps black. in step 15 paint part 21 semigloss black, paint part 23 Gloss black, paint the round part of af 22 satin black, paint the part that sitcks out aluminum, paint the rectanglular part gloss black (this is the brake fluid resivoir cap its black plastic on real firebirds) hope you rmembered to remove the larg "X" on the body where the hood goes as well as the REMOVE bars that connect the windsheild to the door before painting. assemble glass and overhead console to body as stated, use white glue or testors clear window glue made for gluing windows to bodies of cars, dont put in the part 108 the rear view mirror, kitt dont have one. assemble interior bucket to body as well there is a tab that sticks out of the back of the interior poke it through the upper slit in the body and then slightly and carfully psread the lower sides of kitts body to accept the interior. repeat with the chasis and wheels, there is a tab on the back of kitts chasis that pokes through the lower slit on kitts body. paint kitts tailight semi gloss black followed by a few coats of high gloss or regular gloss coat glue to body, glue on kitts rear wing, try to center it with the body before placing it on the body or you will get smearage in the glue not good. kitts bumper if you want to detail kitts KNIGHT plate mask off the bumper so only the 'plate' is visible paint main area Gloss Blue (your preference weither its light or regular, i prefer regular gloss blue) when dry using the YELLOW prismcolor pencil sharpened to a fine point write on the raised areas that say CALIFORNIA and KNIGHT. then taking the SILVER one write on the raised rectangular area that surrounds the plate. take off tape and voila! then glue bumper to the main body. for kitts "Scanner" paint the middle section of kitts front body (the area that has a series of raised vertical lines, silver, let dry OVERNIGHT, then paint over the silver area with Transparent Red or Stop Light Red. then glue nose to body the red of the scanner will be visible in the slot in kitts nose. for ttops, apply tape to OUTSIDE of the clear parts, and turn over spray a few a coat of black your preference, if flat let dry for an hour, if you used gloss let sit overnight to be safe. remove tape and place them on the body (they are fitted for left and right and will only go on one way if one doesnt fit try the other side of body). DO NOT GLUE them on. if your planning on taking KITT to a hobby show remove them and wrap them seperately in a paper towel and place them in the box. you dont need to glue the side pipes parts 102/103 they were not on kitt (unless you plan on doing the KITT from the car show :lol: ) and paint part 84 Semi Gloss Black and glue to underside of the body near the nose.

VOILA! your kitt is NOW DONE, take a bow. if you have any questions you know were to reach me. soon ill tell you all how to do the Knight 4000 :wink:


EDIT: i forgot one IMPORTANT detail of kitts body. before putting the overhead console and glass and tttops on the body paint uper part of the inside of the body dark tan as well only the areas of the inside of the body that will be visible when you put the interior bucket in place most importantly the area near the rear hatch and inside the areas where the ttops will sit but only the INSIDE of the body outside will still be black. i cannot belive i forgot that detail i must be slipping :roll:
Last edited by Dave Knight on Sat Feb 19, 2005 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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KITT: "I want custody of ME!"

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Post by walter h. anderson » Wed Feb 16, 2005 1:15 pm

You are the man, Dave Knight!!!

A quick question, though. Do you have any suggestions for making a lit-up KITT/KARR and KIFT? I'm building them now with lights and opening doors, but I'm a little confused about the which light sources to use. I'm thinking about using some beads-o-wheat.
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Post by Dave Knight » Thu Feb 17, 2005 12:41 am

sorry i wouldnt know i never light up my models unless its sci fi models like my trek and star wars kits cause they are so hollow and have tons of room for bulbs, batteries, and wires :wink:
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KITT: "I want custody of ME!"

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Post by walter h. anderson » Thu Feb 17, 2005 12:46 pm

I have a good idea about the scanner. I'm building KARR from the AMT Knight 2000 kit, and what I plan to do is make a stop-action film with the KARR model. So what I want to do is use 8 beads-o-wheat bulbs with their own on/off switch. Take a pic with one scanner light on. Take another pic with another scanner light on. Etc. Etc. It'll be slow work, but I can show KARR doing all kinds of stunts (Turbo-boost, Ski Mode, Etc.) It should work for my KIFT model, too.
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Post by Dave Knight » Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:08 pm

that would be cool, my advice on getting the bulbs would be belive it or not lights from model railroads, and if they dont have yellow for the scanner (if your doing the black silver karr that is) then go to radio shack and they have LEDs in various colors get a couple of yellow ones :wink:

PS if any of you guys doing a KITT model and dont want to paint the license plate detail then simply sand off the lettering and the rectangular area surrounding the 'plate' and get one of my KNIGHT plate decals i have em for 1/18 scale kitt but i can also get em in 1/25 and if your interested i am doing a KARR one as well. if you want to know what my plates look like my avatar is the prototype for the finished product 8)
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KITT: "I want custody of ME!"

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Post by walter h. anderson » Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:28 pm

I'm thinking about getting a 1/25th license plate for my KARR model.
The model I'm making IS the black/silver KARR with the yellow scanner.

Thanks for the advice on LED's and finding supplies at the railroad modeling stores.
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Post by walter h. anderson » Fri Feb 18, 2005 1:25 pm

If you don't make a difference, you are not the Knight Rider.

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Post by Dave Knight » Fri Feb 18, 2005 7:10 pm

looking good specially the Knight 4000. i hope you can find a AMT dodge stealth kit for the engine detail or are you gonna have your own scratchbuilt/modified drivetrain visible under that removable hood?
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KITT: "I want custody of ME!"

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Post by CB2001 » Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:05 pm

I know its not really related, I am taking a '05 Ford Mustang GT and making a few exterior modifications to give it the appearance of the Mustang I have on the "Knight Rider: Legacy" poster image I did a while back, based off the image that knightphoenix recommended. So far, I've tinted the headlights for the model.

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Post by walter h. anderson » Sat Feb 19, 2005 12:50 pm

No, I'm not using any kind of engine detailing for the Knight 4000. I removed the hood to allow easy access to the battery. I'm planning on using a 9-volt battery for the power source once I finish the wiring schematic. I won't use the engine for KITT, either.
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Post by JJSoCrazy » Thu Feb 24, 2005 4:04 pm

Oh I built a KR 4000, it took a while but came out very nice!, I'll post some pics soon.

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