knight rider online

Thanks! The plates look fairly accurate.. Will print it out for my model. By the way, what happened to your report? I can't view the page.

thunder87 wrote:

GarthKnight08 wrote: Hey man its cool & thanks for the help, i can make anything i really want in photoshop but i just thought it would save time & help other guys out. If he doesnt want to share the images then thats fine ill have to do it then. His plates are not accurate & i was going to fix that for him. But like i said ill make them & then share with you guys to print for your 1/18.

i don't know, why the plates aren't accurate but it's ok (maybe the California font isn't the same, but it doesn't matter when it's printed that small)

Colorado


California


if you want to print them, just scale them down in the print preview

I printed them out and tried it for my KI3T... It looks perfect! Looks better and much more screen accurate than the previous 77KR117 plate that I had done.. Thanks again!

thunder87 wrote:

andy-kitt wrote:

imranbecks wrote: Thunder, you are doing a great job and as a fellow modeler who spends many hours trying different things to make your model work I can understand that you can't share everything with us. It anoys me that people demand how things are done without trying things themselves as they may discover a completely different and better way of doing things. To these people why not show us what you have done on another post and show us what you are doing and where you are stuck and we will do our best to help.

thanks dude


to the letter removing:
I tried to remove the letters without any help (which I really needed) and now i can do some repaint because of the damage - that really suckz because i'm unable to paint anything (two left hands)

To all that requires to remove the shelby letters on the front, just use ladies nail polish which contains asetone. Dip it on a cotton ear bud, slowly and very gently rub against just the letters only. Do one letter at a time! Those letters will come out nicely without scratches to the black coat. Re-polish. As for the rear, well, you've to repaint it with matt black if you intend to remove those letters there using the same technique. Hope this helps.

honeyk wrote: To all that requires to remove the shelby letters on the front, just use ladies nail polish which contains asetone. Dip it on a cotton ear bud, slowly and very gently rub against just the letters only. Do one letter at a time! Those letters will come out nicely without scratches to the black coat. Re-polish. As for the rear, well, you've to repaint it with matt black if you intend to remove those letters there using the same technique. Hope this helps.

Or you can just go to a hobby store and get a paint remover like I did

thunder87 wrote: i don't know, why the plates aren't accurate but it's ok (maybe the California font isn't the same, but it doesn't matter when it's printed that small)

Colorado


California


if you want to print them, just scale them down in the print preview

Now that wasnt that hard was it? And doesnt it feel good to have helped a fellow modeler out instead of saying "sorry i cant share everything"? As for the plate i was referring to is the 1's in the California plate. They look the same as the Colorado one.

Good job on the plates. They look great. Thanks for sharing.

Dose anyone know how I can go about perchesing a scanner or voice orb for my GT500KR KI3T

Yeah there's a guy on this site who built one that's right on Q , but then brags about it and does'nt share info . So good luck with that.

if you mean for your modelcar, just look for a shop that sells 6 or 8 channel LED kits (there are loads of them) - i used a 8 channel CB because the movement looks more smooth and wired the other side (8 channels / 16 LEDs) mirrored - 12345678 | 87654321 ...

BUT if you want to keep the engine and all the other stuff in your car it nearly has to fit in your car so you can finally cut off some edges (i don't know how many hours and bad words i spent on this work and it's not optimal yet) ... if you take a look at my pictures, you'll see, that you'll need nearly more space for cables and battery as for the circuit board...
http://thunder87.kilu.de/joomla/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

voice orb is simply done: I used a DUO LED and did some changes on the board (programming and wiring on the controller) to get the blue one glowing and the red one flickering... (i'm going to make the red flicker brighter)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nolZW3ciS7E" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6_azyTpj8g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

if you mean your 1:1GT500KR this would be the wrong thread

just forgot to mention (but this infos youll find in my report too:

you need a CB with a removeable controller, a programmer (and programming software) and if you kill OR don't want to change the original controller to program it, you'll need a replacment one IF the board isn't doing the right LED movement.

Updated photos of my KI3T this time minus the word SHELBY in front as well as with the proper plates as seen in the show thanks to thunder87! >>>

ok but now how do i go about removing the shelby emblums and cutting the spots for the leds

Hi all,

I'm attempting to paint the rear seats. I noticed that the seat belts are somehow glued on to the seats. I tried removing using a glue remover but without success. Can anyone give some tips? Thanks so much.

Tex 67 wrote:ok but now how do i go about removing the shelby emblums and cutting the spots for the leds

imranbecks wrote:
Or you can just go to a hobby store and get a paint remover like I did

If you mean the SHELBY word in front and at the rear, you can simply use a paint remover like I did which I posted in my previous entry. Its very easy and not as difficult as I thought it wld be. I haven't tried removing the rear words though, but it should be as easy as removing the front, but the only problem is that you might even remove some parts of the stripes as you remove some of the alphabets at the rear.

Tex 67 wrote:ok but now how do i go about removing the shelby emblums and cutting the spots for the leds

See my post on page 3 on trimming of the Shelby snake badges & my post here where someone else asked about cutting the bonnet viewtopic.php?f=1044&t=12756&start=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Regarding seat belt glue, pull or slice seat belts away from rear seats (with care) paint the seat centres in red matt paint & then glue the seat belts back in the same place to hide the glue marks.

honeyk wrote:Hi all,

I'm attempting to paint the rear seats. I noticed that the seat belts are somehow glued on to the seats. I tried removing using a glue remover but without success. Can anyone give some tips? Thanks so much.

just pull the seatbelts off - it works (it doesn't stick that hard on it)

It depends on the model, the last one I did, it was really well stuck on, but first model I did, it just came off really easily.

I have a question about the pates. If I were to make them smaller, what size would they be? I was messing around with it, and got them down to 120 x 60 pixels. However, I am not sure if that is the correct size. Any help would be great. Thanks

Mathyus wrote:I have a question about the pates. If I were to make them smaller, what size would they be? I was messing around with it, and got them down to 120 x 60 pixels. However, I am not sure if that is the correct size. Any help would be great. Thanks

Just measure the license plate's compartment on the model. Input that result into your photo editor i.e. photoshop and print. It should come out just fine.

andy-kitt wrote:It depends on the model, the last one I did, it was really well stuck on, but first model I did, it just came off really easily.

Yeah, those seat belts on mine really glued big time! I tried pulling it off and felt the stressed, so I stopped. You reckon using a small thin blade is a safe method?

honeyk wrote:

Mathyus wrote:I have a question about the pates. If I were to make them smaller, what size would they be? I was messing around with it, and got them down to 120 x 60 pixels. However, I am not sure if that is the correct size. Any help would be great. Thanks

Just measure the license plate's compartment on the model. Input that result into your photo editor i.e. photoshop and print. It should come out just fine.

I actually printed the plates from Microsoft Powerpoint. What I did was paste the image onto a powerpoint slide and resized it till I got it just about the right size.

Thanks

honeyk wrote:

andy-kitt wrote:It depends on the model, the last one I did, it was really well stuck on, but first model I did, it just came off really easily.

Yeah, those seat belts on mine really glued big time! I tried pulling it off and felt the stressed, so I stopped. You reckon using a small thin blade is a safe method?

Carefully slide it between the belt and seat, just be careful not to catch the seat

dose anyone know how to cut the slots in the hood for the leds

Tex 67 wrote:dose anyone know how to cut the slots in the hood for the leds

does no-body read what I write? see my post 9 replies up where someone else asked the same question.