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Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:51 pm
by HondaSiR
89 formula wrote:Also the MPC kit is more accurate than the AMT/ERTL. There are a number of MPC KITTs on e-bay for under $7, by the way.

Make sure you get the MPC kit with either the yellow Corvette promo sign or the Golden Opportunity kit logo. They are the ones with the correct fender vents, tail lights and interior design. The MPC box with the yellow Features Authentic Details sign don't have the vents nor the correct interior anymore although they are still molded in black.

Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:11 am
by Knight2000
Hmmm....I recall a bottle of Castrol something or other in the garage cupboard a while back. Wonder if that's the stuff my dad uses to clean his car wheels with? :roll:

Testors paint? Anyone know if it's available in the UK? Otherwise I'll stick to Humbrol.

Kinda eager to start on it (I've got the Xmas hols - around 2 weeks to do it in) so better go get the paints and brushes first.

Cheers for the help everyone.

PS Anyone ever thought about making a step-by-step guide with photos?

Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2005 10:53 am
by andy-kitt
Humbrol paint is good enough mate.

The only chromed parts i've painted have mainly been for detailing like deep vents on a chrome grille or the interior mirror housing, which once fitted to the vehicle i've never touched again to see if it does rub off.

I've learnt never to polish chromed parts, as that takes away the shine.

If you get stuck on something or want advise theres plenty of modellers here to help. Get out those brushes & get painting LOL.

Posted: Sat Dec 10, 2005 11:01 am
by FuzzieDice
Knight 2000: Yup, Castrol All Wheel Cleaner or Castrol SuperClean as it's sometimes called, is for cleaning tires (or tyres / wheels). In the US, it comes in a big purple spray bottle with black sprayer. What I do is take off the black sprayer, pour some of the stuff in a container (I used a bird feeder bowl I bought at a home improvement store) and then drop the parts in so that they are covered with the liquid on all sides. Then keep checking every few days until no chrome is on the part. I then wash them in warm soapy water with mild detergent or soap and let air dry. Then they are ready to paint. :)

Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:42 pm
by Dave Knight
Im glad you guys still remember my modeling tips on the KITT model kit 8)

If you want a quick and 'relativity' easy way to paint the grey kitt reissue. Get a can of Krylon FUSION spray paint in Satin Black. Spray a few coats a few minutes apart (5-10 minutes between should do it) Follow it up with a few coats of clear, or that flor wax method like FUTURE floor cleaner. As for gluing parts that are chrome, use Testors Wood/Metal Glue it comes in a GREEN tube. I find this glue is perfect for gluing parts you want to keep chome, like mag wheels on muscle cars, mirror inserts on the door mirrors, etc. Just squirt a a blob on a piece of flat material, plastic, cardboard, etc. Then dip a tip of a toothpick into the blob, but not TOO much :shock: . Then you just spread the glue on the 'pick on the surface thats gonna be glued to the part (like carbs to intake manifolds, or valve covers to engine blocks, etc)
If you have any other questions, for detailing models (not just Kitt/Karr, Kift) let me know :)

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2005 1:13 am
by FuzzieDice
I was wondering when you'd get here. :)

I have to write down to get a green tube of that stuff next time I go shopping at the hobby shops. I been sanding off the chrome where I want to glue it.

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:41 am
by 89 formula
Knight2000 wrote:PS Anyone ever thought about making a step-by-step guide with photos?

I think FuzzieDice is working on that.

I started making a step-by-step model conversion guide a few years ago, when I decided to build a scale model of my 1989 Formula. Since there isn't a model of an '89 out there, I started out with a Monogram model of a 1991 Formula. To do the conversion, I had to rework the nose clip using sheet styrene, scratch-built a twin-cat exhaust using aluminum tubing, and hand painted the formula 350 door logos on decal blanks. I also took the rear spoiler, steering wheel, headers, and auto tranny from some donor Firebird model. I documented the whole thing with pictures and sent it to the Fine Scale Modeler magazine, but I never got a response....I guess there isn't much interest in the topic. I still have all the conversion-related pictures and would like to, someday, post it on the web.

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 9:18 am
by FuzzieDice
Yup. I do have one step-by-step done for the '77 Smokey and the Bandit Trans Am already on my site.

I haven't got around to doing more on my KITT and KARR models becuase I been too busy lately. After I get settled into my new apartment and caught up, I'm sure I'll be working more on the models. My modeling stuff is all set up and I can just sit down and go to it anytime I'm ready.

BTW, Dave - I was out shopping yesterday and I picked up a green tube of that glue to add to my collection of modelling supplies. :)

Does that stuff also stick to normal plastic that isn't plated with chrome? Like in gluing a chrome piece to an unpainted plastic piece?

Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2005 11:51 pm
by Dave Knight
it basically glues anything to anything, metal to plastic, viynl to metal, wood to wood. its not the same type of glue that you use to glue styerne plastic parts to each other (styrene glue 'melts' the contact areas of parts to parts) The glue in the green tube is more like crazy glue, or super glue.

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 7:48 pm
by FuzzieDice
Ah, ok. I see what you're saying. I wish I had that stuff awhile back, as I tried using model glue to glue the hood latch piece in my car and it didn't work. :( I bet this other stuff would! I'll have to try it. Or else use Gorilla Glue.

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2005 11:06 pm
by Dave Knight
FuzzieDice wrote:Ah, ok. I see what you're saying. I wish I had that stuff awhile back, as I tried using model glue to glue the hood latch piece in my car and it didn't work. :(

yeah, as model glue is ONLY for use on model kits. That is why it didnt work. Gorilla Glue is good for that stuff too, but it takes hours for it to set, the testors wood glue sets in minutes, and if left alone cures overnight and is very strong.

Another tip in the glue department, elmers white glue for gluing clear parts, like windows to bodies, its a water based glue that wont harm the 'glass' and dries clear. Testors sells a glue just for windows, that looks SUSPICIOUSLY like elmers white glue :roll:


Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2005 8:21 pm
by FuzzieDice
Hmmm... now you are going to get me going to the store for good 'ole Elmer's. :lol: I can't remember when the last time I had a bottle of the stuff around, to tell you the truth!

Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:45 am
by Knight2000
Okay I managed to find a modelling hobby shop and bought some paints. Didn't have Humbrol (most of the colours were out of stock). They had acrylic water-based ones by some company called Tamiya which I ended up buying. They any good? Will they work? Should I take them back and kick him in the nuuts?

Also got some Revell glue which comes in a nozzle/gun-type thing, and a couple of brushes.

Am I ready or do I need more kitt? (;))

Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:45 am
by FuzzieDice
I've heard of Tamiya but don't know off hand how good their paints are. I haven't seen them sold in the US locally where I am. The hobby shops here sell Testers and Model Master (made by Testers) so that is what I use on my kits.

I too would be interested in finding out how good some of the other types of paints are out there.

Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:15 pm
by andy-kitt
Tamiya sprays are good, not used their "brush paints" though. I've not seen Testers in the UK either, are they in little tins? or bottles?

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 11:08 am
by Knight2000
I've decided to make a start on my model, otherwise it'd never get done.

So far, I've painted all the parts for Sections 1 and 2. The acrylic paint is ok but not brilliant. Gone over with two coats, which is made easier by the fact that it dries amazingly fast (less than one hour!).

I'm trying figure out a system whereby I would do one coat in the morning. Wait a few hours. Give a second coat. Leave for another few hours (so it's approximately 10 hours after first coat). Glue the bits together and leave overnight.

This plan sound good? Potentially, I could work faster, seeing as the acrylic dries rapidly. Not sure how long I should leave the parts together after glueing. Any ideas?

Also, I've decided that since this is my first model, it's gonna be a 'practice' one, but one where I still try my best. I'm already generating ideas on how to make the doors swing open and about making a proper scanner that lights up.

With regards to the scanner, I'm supposed to paint it on. Is it possible to sand down and use one of the three plastic bits for the tail panel instead?

PS Anyone find difficulty with painting the fiddly small bits such as part no 82? I thought about painting such bits while they're still on the tree but not sure if that's a good idea.

Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:13 pm
by andy-kitt
Paint everything while on their "trees", its so much easier, you can always touch up the gaps where they were attached etc once the parts glued.

Personally I paint then leave overnight to dry. Sometimes paint is "touch dry" but you end up with finger prints while holding pieces if paint not completely dry.

Don't try and work too quickly. Normally I paint every thing. Next night build up the seperate components like engine, axles, interior.

Offer parts together before glueing to ensure a perfect fit as sometimes some trimming required and for working items like steering, work them so that they remain free while glue drying.

For the scanner (if want painted) do one line heavy paint, next line lighter, then lighter until last one very thin layer of paint that it looks very faint.

You can buy LED scanner kits instead of want a working scanner.

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:02 am
by FuzzieDice
What I do is put toothpicks in styrofoam and then put the parts on the toothpicks and paint them. Having the parts already glued is good because you shouldn't put glue over paint as then the glue won't hold well. Also, by gluing first, you find all the inaccuracies and gaps and can then fill with filler putty and sand, smooth out, clean off with wet rag, and then you can be sure the parts fit good before you paint. This way the paint can go on more smoothly and uniformly.

But try different techniques and see which one works for you.

I'm tempted to try painting on the tree first, then cut, etc, but afraid of the knife slipping and scratching up the paint when I go to remove the parts. :?

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 5:22 pm
by Knight2000
With reference to Section 5 - putting together the fanbelt/pulley assembly, it's clear that #43 goes at the rear of the pulleys. Do #39, #104 and #105 also go at the rear (meaning that only the fan itself is at the front)?

I REALLY appreciate your help guys!

Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 10:41 pm
by HondaSiR
Knight2000 wrote:With reference to Section 5 - putting together the fanbelt/pulley assembly, it's clear that #43 goes at the rear of the pulleys. Do #39, #104 and #105 also go at the rear (meaning that only the fan itself is at the front)?

Yes, you are correct. Only the fan is attached to the front of the fanbelt assembly while the others go at the back.

Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2005 4:37 pm
by Knight2000
I've started on Step/Section 6. Found out that part #71 is slightly bent (ie not symmetrical) - one of the side pole thingies is bent to one side.

How can I safely bend it back to normal, bearing in mind that I've already painted it?


Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:31 pm
by Knight2000
Okay so I've omitted that part coz it seems too difficult to correct.

Next Q:


It seems too big to fit properly into the car, without encroaching into seat space. Did anyone modify their dashboard for their model?

PS Toilet bleach works wonders on dechroming the rims.

Merry XMas

Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:12 pm
by andy-kitt
yeah some modification is required to obtain a perfect fit, unfortunatly it was so long ago I did mine I can't remember what I did, sorry.

Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 8:40 pm
by HondaSiR
Knight2000 wrote:THE DASH!

It seems too big to fit properly into the car, without encroaching into seat space. Did anyone modify their dashboard for their model?

You have to cut or sand off approximately one millimeter of plastic from both parts of the dashboard. Sand them off slowly and try to graft/cement them together seamlessly.

Posted: Mon Dec 26, 2005 8:49 pm
by FuzzieDice
Don't forget the filler putty to fill in gaps where it didn't fit right. Even if you do the model exactly, you still may find gaps. Let the putty dry completely, then sand it flush. Wipe dust off with a clean wet rag, let dry and paint.